Most reloaders handload because it is interesting, less expensive than shooting factory loads and because they can often develop more accurate loads for specific guns. The NRMA wants you to enjoy this hobby safely and this leaflet provides some basic rules observed by all top-notch reloaders. Obviously, it is not a reloading manual. You are urged to read all available books on reloading. Go to demonstrations, talk to experienced handloaders. Make yourself as knowledgeable as you can.
Basic Reloading Precautions
1. Modern ammunition uses smokeless powder as the energy source. Smokeless powder is much more powerful than black powder or Pyrodex®. Never substitute smokeless powder for black powder or Pyrodex® and never mix it with either.
2. Follow loading recommendations exactly. Don't substitute components for those listed. Start loading with the minimum powder charge in the loads shown.
3. Never exceed manufacturers' reloading data. Excess pressures caused by excessive loads could severely damage a firearm and cause serious injury or death.
4. Understand what you are doing and why it must be done in a specific way.
5. Stay alert when reloading. Don't reload when distracted, disturbed or tired.
6. Set up a loading procedure and follow it. Don't vary your sequence of operations.
7. Set up your reloading bench where powder and primers will not be exposed to heat, sparks or flame.
8. DO NOT smoke while reloading.
9. ALWAYS wear safety glasses while reloading.
10. Keep everything out of the reach of small children.
11. Keep your reloading bench clean and uncluttered. Label components and reloads for easy identification.
12. Do not eat while handling lead.
13. NEVER try to dislodge a loaded cartridge that has become stuck in the chamber by impacting it with a cleaning rod. Have a competent gunsmith remove the round.
Smokeless Powder
All smokeless powders obviously have to burn very fast, but handgun and shotgun powders must burn faster than rifle powders. You will readily note the differences in physical size and shape of various powders, but you cannot see differences in chemical composition that help to control the rate of burning. Burn rate is also affected by pressure. "Hot primers," seating the bullet too deep, overcrimping the case on the bullet, tight gun chambers, oversize bullets, use of heavy shot loads and anything that increases friction or confinement of the powder will increase the pressure. Obviously this hobby requires attention to detail, patience and meticulousness to insure the safety and quality of loads produced.
Powder Warnings
1. NEVER mix powders of different kinds.
2. Use the powder ONLY as recommended in manufacturer reloading manuals.
3. Store powder in cool, dry place.
4. If you throw or measure powder charges by volume, check-weigh the charges every time you begin loading, occasionally during loading and when you finish.
5. Pour out only enough powder for the immediate work.
6. NEVER substitute smokeless powder for black powder or Pyrodex®.
7. Don't carry powder in your clothing. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling it.
8. Store powders only in original package. Don't repackage.
9. Keep powder containers tightly closed when not in use.
10. Specific powders are designed for specific uses. Don't use them for other purposes.
11. Smokeless powder is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE. To dispose of deteriorated powders, follow recommendations in The Properties and Storage of Smokeless Powder SAAMI Reprint #376-2500, which is published in some reloading guides or available from NRMA.
12. Empty the powder measure back into the original powder container when through with a reloading session. DO NOT MIX POWDERS.
13. Clean up spilled powder with brush and dust pan; do not use a vacuum cleaner because fire or explosion may result.
Primers
Priming materials differ in brisance (initial explosive force) and in the amount of hot gas produced. Don't mix primers of different makes.
1. Don't decap live primers. Fire them in the appropriate gun then decap.
2. Don't ream out or enlarge the flash hole in primer pockets. This can increase chamber pressure.
3. Over-ignition creates higher gun pressures. The best results are obtained by using the mildest primer consistent with good ignition.
4. Don't use primers you can't identify. Ask your local police or fire department to dispose of unidentifiable or nonserviceable primers.
5. Keep primers in the original packaging until used. Return unused primers to the same package. Don't dump together and store in bulk. There is a risk of mass detonation if one is ignited.
6. If resistance to seating or feeding of primers is felt, STOP and investigate. DO NOT FORCE PRIMERS.
7. Store primers in a cool, dry place. High temperature, such as in a summer attic, causes them to deteriorate.
8. Don't handle primers with oily or greasy hands. Oil contamination can affect ignitability.
9. There have been instances of "primer dusting" in the tubes of loading tools because of vibration. Clean the machines after each use.
10. Refer to SAAMI reprint SPORTING AMMUNITION PRIMERS: Properties, Handling & Storage for Handloading. If you don't have one, write NRMA.
Handling Lead
Lead, a substance known to cause birth defects, reproductive harm and other serious physical injury, must be handled with extreme care. Handle lead bullets or lead shot only in a well ventilated area and ALWAYS wash hands after handling lead and before eating. Discharging firearms in poorly ventilated areas, cleaning firearms, or handling ammunition also may result in exposure to lead. Have adequate ventilation at all times.
Handloading Rifle & Pistol Cartridges
1. Examine cases before loading. Discard any that are not in good condition.
2. Put labels on boxes of loaded cartridges. Identify caliber, primer, powder and charge, bullet and weight, and date of reloading.
3. In handgun cartridges, the seating depth of the bullet is extremely important. Handgun powders must burn very quickly because of the short barrel. They are sensitive to small changes in crimp, bullet hardness, bullet diameter, primer brisance and especially to bullet seating depth.
4. Check the overall length of the cartridge to be sure the bullet is seated properly.*
5. If you cast your own bullets, remember their hardness, diameter and lubrication affect the ballistics.
6. Plastic cases designed for practice loads (where the bullet is propelled by primer gas only) can't be used for full powder loads.
7. Consult manufacturer regarding disposal of unserviceable ammunition. Ask your local police or fire department to dispose of small quantities.
*Accumulation of lead or grease in the bullet seating tool may force the bullet in too far. If the bullet isn't seated deeply enough, it may engage the lands of the barrel when loaded. This will increase the chamber pressure.
Reloading Shotgun Shells
1. Select cases that are in good condition. Be sure base wad is intact and the shells are of the same brand and type. Discard any with split mouths.
2. Check the powder bushing to be sure it is correct for the powder weight recommended. Check-weigh thrown powder charges.
3. Check shot bushing for shot charge weight.
4. Shotshell wads differ in their sealing ability. Use the load combination specified in the reloading guide.
5. FOR YOUR SAFETY, PLEASE NOTE: YOU CANNOT substitute STEEL, BUFFERED LEAD SHOT or BISMUTH SHOT in loads recommended for LEAD SHOT ONLY. To load steel or Bismuth shot or add buffer materials to lead shot, you MUST use different components, and follow EXACTLY the instructions provided by recognized authorities.
Prevent Missing & Double Charges
1. It is easy to double charge if you are momentarily distracted. Use a depth gauge to check powder height in a shell. A piece of doweling rod can be used as a depth gauge.
2. Observe the powder level of cases placed in the loading block. This is a way to discover any cases with missing or double powder charges.
3. Take care to operate progressive loaders as the manufacturer recommends. Don't back up the turret or jiggle the handle. Don't use a shell to catch the residue when cleaning out the powder train.
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After reading Slayer's article on reloading, I figured Id go ahead and write a "how to reload" type article geared toward the beginner with no prior knowledge. A little personal information is due here, Ive been reloading for about 13 years, and although Im sure there are some here who have been doing it longer than me, Ive got lots of time on the machines due to the fact that Ive got an ammunition manufacturers license and do this as a part time job.
I figure that most beginning reloaders will start with handgun ammo and then progress to the rifle calibers so for this article we'll stick to handgun calibers and single stage equipment. Single stage simply means that individual steps in the reloading process are done one at a time on a press that holds one cartridge at a time.
First lets get to a list of equipment that you will need to get started, I know that Slayer covered this in his article, but bear with me.
1. A STURDY reloading bench-dosent need to be fancy, but rock solid. You can buy one and assemble it or you can build one yourself. Since most people here are do it yourselfers I suppose most of you will go with the second option. Recommended minimum dimentions for the top is at least 24"wide by 48"long, but this will depend on where you decide to set it up. Height will depend on the chair you plan on using, just make it comfortable for you and remember you will be spending a considerable amount of time here so you dont want to be in an ackward position. One final note, make sure you leave a lip on the edge closest to you because the press will need to hang over a bit.
2. Press-there are a number of single stage presses on the market, the one that I have the most experience and confidence in is the Rock Chucker press from RCBS. This is not the least expensive press that you can get, but this thing is built like a tank and will handle even the most arduous resizing and case forming duties.
3. Powder measure-this is what meters powder and speeds up the entire process. This is not a must have item, you can use powder dippers, little scoop like devices, but believe me the price of a good powder measure is money well spent. There are lots of good brands to use, and are available as "fixed cavity"or "adjustable cavity". Go with the adjustible model as it is much more flexible . A good inexpensive model is the Lee Perfect Powder Measure. Ive had one of these for years and for the price its hard to beat.
4. Powder Scale-A reliable and accurate powder scale is absolutely mandatory for safe reloading. It must be calibrated in Grains, not Grams or Ounces and needs to be accurate within +/-0. 1 grain(1/10th grain). Again the price range for these is extreme but get the best you can afford. I recommend the RCBS 10-10 scale, its accurate and for about $100. 00 its good insurance. Digital scales are also available but are no more accurate than the rest.
5. Reloading manual-Again, absolutely necessary. Most bullet and powder companies print manuals, some even offer free data pamplets, and some have websites. More than one is preferred, so you can compare them. NEVER guess at a charge wt. , use only published data and even then NEVER exceed the maximum loads, this is where people get hurt!
6. Reloading dies-You need a set of dies for each caliber you plan to load, but some dies will load more than one caliber, Such as . 38/. 357, . 44spl/. 44mag. Dies for pistol cartridges come three to a set, the sizer die sizes the case( reshapes the fired case back close to the original dimension) and deprimes the case(removes the spent primer). The expander die flares the case mouth so that a new bullet can be seated without damaging the bullet or the case. The seat/crimp die does just that, seats the bullet and applys either a roll crimp(revolver cartridges) or a taper crimp(auto loading cartridges). I recommend either Lee or RCBS dies, Lee is cheaper. Dies are available in either steel(requires you to lube cases)or carbide(no lube required) spend a little extra and get the carbide dies, as this will greatly speed things up.
7. Shell holder-as in dies, each caliber you plan to load requires a shell holder. Lee dies come with the proper shellholder but RCBS does not. Some different cartridges use the same shell holder, such as . 45acp/. 308win, . 38/. 357, . 270/. 30-06 etc. The shell holder is what holds the case in the press in alignment with the die.
8. Priming tool-Some presses such as the Rock Chucker allow you to prime cases(install new primer) with the press itself. If your press lacks this feature then you can prime in a number of other ways. Hand priming tools are easy to use-on the Lee tool you dump the primers into a tray, shake until all are facing up, put the cover on, put the case in the tool and squeeze the tool to insert the primer. RCBS has a tool that eliminates the dump/shake routine by using primers that come on strips, thus saving time. These CCI primers cost the same as the ones without the strips, and they also have a tool that will load loose primers onto the strips.
9. Powder Funnel-this inexpensive device is used to transfer powder from the measure to the case, thus avoiding spills. Any small funnel that is new/unused can be used, but be sure to wash it first with dishsoap to remove any static electricity that will cause the powder to stick to the funnel. DO NOT use a funnel that has been previously for something else as you can contaminate the powder.
10. Loading block-used to hold the cases while your charging to prevent spills, and to help prevent double charges/missing charge, more on this later. You can buy these or you can use the plastic trays that come in factory ammo. boxes.
11. Case Tumbler/Vibratory Cleaner-All cases need to be cleaned after firing, even nickel plated ones and the easiest wat to do this is by using a vibratory cleaner. These are sometimes called tumblers, but this is not correct as a tumbler is a different machine. Several companies make these such as RCBS, Hornady, Midway, etc all are good, just pick one that fits your needs. Just fill with media, dump in the dirty brass, turn it on and check every couple hours until clean. Theres other ways to clean brass, but this is the easiest, least messy way to go.
12. Media-this is what you put in the tumbler/vibratory cleaner to clean the brass. Theres two types, walnut and corncob. Walnut cleans better, and corncob polishes better. If you only want to use one then go with walnut. I use both in seperate tumblers but this not necessary.
13. Cases-you can buy these new or once fired , or you can simply use fired brass from factory ammo. that you have shot. One common question is "how many times can I reload brass?"Well theres lots of variables involved, but with moderate loads its not uncommon to lose the brass at the range before you wear it out. Ive reloaded the same case so many times that I couldnt even read the headstamp anymore! Magnum cases firing maximum charges usually wont last more than maybe 2 or 3 times before they split but can last longer.
14. Bullets-you can buy them or in the case of lead bullets you can cast your own. Decide what you want to do with this ammo, (hunt, plink, shoot people, whatever)and buy accordingly.
15. Powder-Start out buying it in the 1lb cans until you find a load that you like and then you can buy in bulk and save money. Check your load book to find a load that suits you and start from there.
16. Primers-Several choices here, CCI, Federal, Remington, Winchester. I prefer winchester myself, have had good luck with them. LG pistol fits . 45acp, 10mm, SM pistol fits 9mm, . 40 s&w, . 38spl, . 380. LG pistol magnum fits . 44mag, SM pistol magnum fits . 357 mag. Check the load book before you pick primers as all magnum loads do not require magnum primers.
I know this seems like alot of stuff, but this is just the basics that really are required. To load rifle ammo. requires even more stuff, and Ill cover that in another article.
Now lets walk through the steps to load this stuff and get to the fun part-SHOOTING.
1. Clean and sort brass-or vice versa, clean brass as outlined above and sort by caliber. You can sort by headstamp if you want, but this is not required.
2. Inspect brass-look for anything out of the ordinary like splits, dents, holes, crushed cases, excessive bulges, badly corroded cases etc. Theres no sense risking your safety or your gun on questionable brass, throw it away. Also pick out any cases that are made of steel or aluminum, these are not reloadable. Check any foreign brass to see if its "berdan primed"this brass is not worth the trouble to reload, you can tell by looking inside, if its got two flash holes offset its berdan primed, if its got one flash hole in the center its boxer primed and can be reused.
3. Resizing and depriming-Insert the case holder into the press and screw the sizing die into the top of the press. With the ram at the top of its stroke screw the sizing die down until it touches the shell holder then back it off a tad until theres about 1/64 of an inch clearance between the shell holder and the die body(about the thickness of a matchbook cover) this is to prevent the carbide insert from contacting the steel shell holder causing damage to the die. Set the large lock ring on the die and your set for resizing. Now screw the decapping pin down until it protrudes about 1/4 inch below the bottom of the die and set the small nut on top(if using RCBS dies). Now is a good time to check and see if you are sizing correctly, drop this first sized case in your chamber or charge hole and make sure that it fits. If it dosent go in, fix it now before you continue. Size all the brass you have for this caliber and set aside or put in a container.
4. Expand case mouths-Unscew the sizing die and remove. Screw the expander die into the press until the die touches the shellholder. Unscrew the expander plug until a sized case just touches the plug when the ram is fully raised. Lower the ram slightly and screw the plug down one quarter of a turn at a time until you see that the case mouth is slightly flared. Too much flare causes premature mouth splits, too litle flare causes the bullet to catch on the edge of the case destroying the case and or bullet. Once adjusted properly, set the large lock ring. Expand all cases and set aside or put in a container.
5. Priming-see above if using a hand priming tool. INSURE you have the correct type/size primers before you begin. Prime all cases and set them into the load blocks. Note:primers should be seated just below flush to prevent misfires, if the primers are not seated deep enough the firing pins energy may not be enough to ignite the primer. If you notice a high primer after you charge the case with powder DO NOT attempt to reseat it unless you dump the powder out first.
6. Set your scale on a level surface(not your bench, as once the scale is zeroed you dont want anything to disturb it) . Since all scales operate differently, you need to refer to the manual that comes with it, and zero your scale. Now set the scale to the charge weight that you want by refering to the load book. NEVER exceed the maximum charge weight for any reason, ALWAYS start at the beginning load and work your way up checking for signs of excessive pressure along the way(explain in a minute). You may want to purchase a set of check weights to verify your scale.
7. Refer to the powder measure instructions (because their all different too) and adjust the measure until it throws the precise charge that you want. On some measures its easier to just use trial and error, throw a charge in the pan, weigh it , adjust, throw, weigh etc. until you get the charge you want. DO NOT move on to the next step until you have double checked the data from the book, the scale setting, and that the measure is throwing the correct charge every time.
8. Charge cases-If and only if everything above is correct, charge your cases by either removing them from the loading block one at a time , charging them under the measure, returning them back to the block, or by passing the block under the measure and charging them one at a time. Dont forget to use the funnel to avoid spills. You need to check your scale every 10 throws until you have reached 50 throws and then after every 50 throws thereafter. If your scale gets bumped, stop and check it. If the measure starts throwing too little or too much powder, stop and readjust it before continuing. I may seem paranoid here but dont take any chances with this stuff, it can be very dangerous. After all cases are charged, visually check to make sure all cases have a charge in them, and only one charge. This will prevent squib loads(no powder) and double charges(BOOM!). O. k. were getting close, hang in there.
9. Seat and crimp, revolver-Take out the expander die and screw in the seat/crimp die into the press , leaving about 1/4 inch between the die and the shell holder. Screw down the lock ring until it touches the press but dont set the set screw yet. Lower the ram and insert a bullet into the mouth of a charged case and place it in the shell holder. Raise the ram until you feel the bullet entering the case. Check and see how far the bullet is seated in the case and adjust by turning the seater stem(center part of this die)untill the desired depth is achieved. The bullet should be seated until approximately 90% of the cannelure(crimping groove) is covered by the case. Once the correct seating depth has been reached, unscrew the seater stem as far as it will go. Now on to the crimp. Loosen the large lock ring and raise the ram all the way with the cartridge still in the shell holder, slowly screw the die into the press untill you feel resistance. Lower the ram slightly and screw the die in about 1/4 turn. Raise the ram and check the crimp. Raise or lower the die body until you get the desired crimp. Tighten the large lock ring, raise the ram, then adjust the seater stem down until the stem makes contact with the bullet. Tighten the seater stem lock nut(if RCBS)and your ready to check the final product.
Open the cylinder on your revolver and drop the loaded round into a charge hole. It should enter fully and freely. If it only goes in a little ways you probably used too much flair when you expanded, if it sticks near the rim, you probably did not size the case fully. Either way if something is wrong at this point, correct the problem before you continue on and have a whole lot of problem rounds on the table.
10. Seat and crimp auto pistol-Taper crimping is required for cartridges that headspace on the case mouth. Setting the seating depth for auto pistol cartridges is the same as the method used for revolver cartridges above. Since bullets designed for use with auto pistol cartridges usually do not have a cannelure, bullet seating depth needs to be set with a caliper or if your too cheap to buy one you can use a round of factory ammo. to set your die. Once seating depth has been set, setting the taper crimp is similar to the method used on the revolver cartridge above. Once you think the crimp is adjusted correctly, take the loaded round out of the shell holder and push the bullet againt the your bench. If the bullet moves deeper into the case, you need more crimp. You want to make sure the bullet will not move during feeding or excessive pressure will result(BOOM). Once everything seems o. k. , disasemble your pistol and like above, drop the loaded round into the chamber and check it. If it dosent slide right in, youve got a problem.
Almost done!Once you have the first 10 rounds loaded, its time to take it out and check it out. We are not worried about accuracy yet, were just trying to determine whether the ammunition is safe, and functions correctly. Put your eyes and ears on and load one round . Fire and examine the fired casing, signs that you have excessive pressure are as follows-split cases, backed out primers, excessive recoil, flattened primers, hard extraction. If any of these conditions are found stop firing immediately! Do not fire any more of these rounds until you can correct the problem. Its much better to have to go back and redo the whole process, or even throw some ammo away, than to risk injury or damage to your gun. If the first round shows no signs of problems, fire three more and repeat the inspection process. If still no problems, fire the rest and inspect. Now is the time to go back and load a full box and try them. Hopefully everything works fine, your ammo is safe, it functions fine, and you learned a thing or two.
Always remember that safety is the number one consideration here. Go slow at first, if you are unsure of something ask someone-never assume. Reloading is a fun and interesting pastime, an important skill to know, and it even saves money. Enjoy.
If you have any question about this article or reloading in general, please feel free to e-mail me at Pointman91@hotmail. com
I HAVE BEEN RELOADING SINCE I WAS 18 YEARS OLD. I NO LONGER RELOAD BECAUSE OF MY DECLINING HEALTH BUT I STILL KNOW A GREAT DEAL ABOUT THIS SUBJECT.
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS YOU CAN EMAIL ME THROUGH MY WEBSITE. IT WILL NOT TAKE A GREAT DEAL OF MONEY TO GET STARTED AS YOU ONLY NEED A SINGLE STAGE PRESS OR A TURRET PRESS.
HAVING YOUR OWN AMMUNITION FACTORY WILL BE A GREAT ASSET FOR YOU IN THE HARD TIMES THAT ARE COMING, REMEMBER THE CLOCK IS TICKING.
I LIKE A REDDING TURRET PRESS OR A "C" TYPE SINGLE STAGE PRESS. I LIKE RCBS DIES. I WOULD STAY WITH A MECHANICAL SCALE IN CASE WE ARE HIT WITH AN EMP DEVICE.
A common topic centers on which is best: 9mm Mak, .380 ACP, or the .38 Snub. Though ballistically in the same general ballpark, each round brings with it certain advantages as well as negatives. Let's take a look at what we might expect from these or similar loads.
9x18mm: Rare in the US until the mass importation of the Makarov pistol, the round is now common among shooters. Its ballistic payload is similar to a top end, maximum effort .380 ACP. One load approaches that of the 9x19mm, but only when the latter is being fired from a short (3") barrel. LVE Brown Bear 115-gr. JHP usually hits between about 1020 ft/sec and 1050 ft/sec depending upon the particular Makarov it's being fired from. Federal 115-gr. JHP from a short 9mm is usually less than 100 ft/sec faster as that load is not optimized for shorter barrels. There are many other loads in which the 9mm uniformly walks away from the Mak's capabilities.
In normal trim, it's generally accepted that the 9x18mm throws a 95-gr. 0.363" diameter bullet about 1050 ft/sec.
Foreign-made 9x18mm ammunition is very inexpensive and allows for considerable shooting. It is much less costly than the ballistically similar .380 ACP and slightly more powerful.
.380 ACP: Dimensionally, this is a scaled down .45 ACP from those round's creator, John M. Browning. Like the Makarov, it is most often fired from blow back semiautomatics though a few pistols so chambered have used the locked breech common to higher-pressure rounds like the 9x19mm.
Typical performance from the "traditional size" .380 ACP like the Walther PPK is a 95-gr. bullet at 950 ft/sec. Add approximately 100 ft/sec for +P 90-gr. bullets from the same size pistols.
Note: The really compact .380's currently available were not used in this report. Velocities generally suffer significantly when fired from barrels less than about 3.25". If you use one of the small .380 ACP pistols, you may need to go to +P rounds to insure that the velocity is enough to actually obtain expansion. Having seen JHP ammo expand very nicely from the Makarov/Bersa/Walther sized .380's and act like ball when fired from some of the really compact .380 pistols, I personally prefer the standard size pistols in this caliber. Others may truly need to go with the smaller, but might want to be sure that their ammunition is capable of expansion. There's no guarantee of it with any of them, but I think we're right on the edge with some loads in the smaller pistols.
Some very nice pistols are offered today in .380 ACP (9x17mm, 9mm Corto, 9mm Kurz). Ammunition is more costly, but the selection of high performance JHP ammo is more readily available. Such can be had from American makers like Remington, Winchester, Federal, Corbon, and Hornady. Speer offers their excellent Gold Dot in this caliber as well.
All of this will be more expensive than the foreign JHP is available in 9x18mm Makarov. Like I said, there's "good" and "bad" with each of these calibers.
.38 Special (2" barrel): Still popular, the velocity for most bullets fired will be in the same range as either the Makarov round or the .380 ACP. The difference is that the .38 Special will toss slugs of slightly greater weight at these speeds. Expansion is similar to the other two, but penetration is almost always a bit deeper.
There are many JHP loads in various bullet weights readily available in this caliber. None are as inexpensive as the 9x18mm's. With its heavier bullet capability, the .38 snub's recoil goes up significantly for most folks when compared to the .380 or 9mm Makarov.
Actual Velocities: The velocity figures that follow are all based on 10-shot strings of fire. The listed handgun is what the ammo was fired from.
Both the .380 (left) and 9mm Makarov use 95-gr. FMJ in most FMJ loads. There are exceptions, but this seems to be normal for them in their traditional non-expanding loads.
The CZ83 and Makarov were used for velocity information as both have almost the same length barrels.
.380 ACP (CZ-83 w/3.8" bbl): Average Velocity (ft/sec)
Remington 102-gr. Golden Saber 928 (ES: 70, SD: 22)
9x18mm Makarov (Makarov w/3.83" bbl):
Barnaul Tiger 95-gr. JHP 1062 (ES: 41, SD: 14)
Barnaul 95-gr. JHP 1051 (ES: 26, SD: 8)
LVE Brown Bear 115-gr. JHP 1018 (ES: 32, SD: 10)
Hornady 95-gr. XTP 979 (ES: 82, SD: 24)
Corbon 95-gr. JHP +P 1121 (ES: 24, SD: 8)
The highest velocity shown for either caliber is from Corbon with their 90-gr. in .380 at 1083 ft/sec compared to their now discontinued 95-gr. Makarov JHP at 1121 ft/sec. 95-gr. .380 loads from Magtech and Remington UMC hit around 970 ft/sec while the Makarov speeds with the same weight bullet hits between 1000 and 1100 ft/sec with the exception of the Hornady XTP. It is clearly in .380 ACP velocity range, but 46 ft/sec faster than the same company's .380 ACP. We can see that the Makarov has a slight edge on the .380 ACP, but it is not a 9x19mm as some folks have claimed.
To prove that, here are some velocity figures from a Glock 26 9mm. It has a 3.46" barrel.
It is pretty evident that neither the .380 nor the Makarov can compete with the high-pressure 9x19mm. As very compact 9mm pistols now exists, some question the rationale for the Mak and .380 as well as the .38 Special snub. Whether the "wisest" move or not, many folks simply prefer either the caliber or the firearm as sales in both the .380 and .38 remain high and Makarov fans are legion.
.38 Special (S&W Model 642 w/1 7/8" barrel):
Remington 158-gr. +P LSWCHP 800 (ES: 27, SD: 12)
Federal 125-gr. Nyclad HP (Std. Pressure) 836 (ES: 30, SD: 12)
Corbon 115-gr. +P+ JHP 1188 (ES:39,SD: 13)
PMC 125-gr. +P "Starfire" JHP 859 (ES:29, SD: 13)
Though not having the highest velocity with most loads, the short .38 snub throws heavier bullets speeds similar to the .380 and Makarov rounds. With the now-discontinued Corbon +P+ round, the snub actually attained speeds better than some standard pressure 9mm loads from service size pistols.
It is evident that based strictly on ballistic capabilities none of the cartridges mentioned are as potent as 9mm, .40, or .45 ACP and that they normally operate in the range of 800 to 1100 ft/sec with some exceptions.
Penetration & Expansion:
I cannot afford the tariff to use 10% ballistic gelatin nor do I have the capabilities of keeping it at a constant temperature so that tests are repeatable and uniform. While it is the "gold standard" for bullet testing, I use water and wet pack tests. I define "wet pack" as super-saturated newsprint that has soaked 24-hrs and been allowed to drain for 30 minutes before shooting. It does limit penetration compared to gelatin. How much depends upon the velocity range of the bullet. For 9mm bullets in the 1100 to 1300 ft/sec range, multiplying wet pack penetration by 1.52 to 1.54 seems to give about the same penetration depths in gelatin. In the .380/9mm Makarov, multiplying the penetration in wet pack by about 2.3 seems to give ballpark gelatin penetration figures for similar velocities, but lower velocities as out of shorter guns will not be the same. The reason is that some of the bullets have a lower threshold velocity for expanding and if it's not met, they penetrate more. I have not yet had the chance to see how much expansion retards penetration with the really short autos. Expansion is very similar in both media. JHP's fired into water frequently fragment a bit more than in wet pack and shed their jackets much more readily as the water gets between the jacket and the bullet easier.
Penetration depths listed for each load is based on a three-shot average. The "estimated penetration" figures are what I think they'll do in tissue assuming no major bones are hit. Both depths are given in inches.
I do not have .380 penetration figures at this time in wet pack in numbers large enough to "trust," but I suspect strongly that they will be extremely similar to those for the Makarov round as both are so similar ballistically.
In bare 10% gelatin, most .380 JHP's penetrate from about 8 to 10".
Here are three 9x18mm Mak Hornady XTP bullets. The one at the top right was fired into water while the other two were recovered from wet pack. The expanded bullets averaged 0.55 x 0.54 x 0.32" tall and weighed an average of 93 grains, losing 2 grains when expanding.
9x18mm Brown Bear 115-gr. JHP's averaged the greatest expanded well and recovered bullets averaged 113-gr. in weight. Dimensions: 0.61 x 0.60 x 0.36" tall.
It seems reasonable to assume that we can count on roughly this depth of penetration with expanding bullets in either caliber. In .38 Special, when fired from a snub, expanding bullets penetrate from a low of about 9" to roughly 12", depending upon maker and bullet weight. If they don't expand, penetration is significantly greater…as is the case with the .380 and 9x18mm. Some folks prefer to use FMJ in these smaller auto calibers or solid SWC in the .38 snub to achieve what they considered adequate penetration. I'm happy with penetration of 10 to 12 inches with the snub or the other calibers under discussion.
Barnaul Tiger 95-gr. 9x18mm exhibited some fragmentation and penetrated an average of 3.5" in wet pack. Recovered dimensions averaged 0.64 x 0.65 x 0.31" tall. The average recovered bullet weight was 94 grains when the bullet did not fragment.
To me, the .380 and 9mm Mak are lacking in penetration for other than frontal, unobstructed shots with the .38 Special 158-gr. LSWCHP +P being but adequate. For me, that's enough of a reason to go with the revolver over the .380/9mm Mak genre of pistols. I will keep testing and checking and re-evaluating as nothing remains static. I'd like to see Corbon bring out their PowRball in both .380 and 9x18mm Makarov if it can be done with the velocity these rounds can provide. I'd like to see the round increase penetration a bit to say 10 or 12".
Corbon 95-gr. 9x18mm always exhibited expansion and fragmentation. In fact, its recovered bullet diameters were smaller as much of the bullet broke off while passing through the test medium be it water or wet pack. Average recovered weight was 69 grains. Average expanded diameter: 0.49 x 0.53 x 0.34" tall.
Should we find an expanding bullet for either the .380 or the 9x18 that reliably expands and hits in that penetration range, I'd most likely go to it from the .38 snub.
Corbon no longer produces the .38 Special 115-gr. +P+ load shown here. It used a Sierra 115-gr. 9mm JHP and hit velocities of nearly 1200 ft/sec from this Model 642. I do think that this load would cause excessive wear to the revolver and might split the forcing cone. I shoot it but rarely.
This remains my current load of choice in the .38 snub. It's Remington 158-gr. LSWCHP +P. You can see that it meets or exceeds the expanded 9mm Makarov diameters and it penetrates a bit more. Better loads will inevitably be on the way and one might be Speer's 130-gr. Gold Dot +P in this caliber. I've not yet had the opportunity to test it.
In most private citizen lethal force scenarios, the fight is close range and face to face. In such situations where shots can be made to the upper torso without obstructions, any of the calibers under discussion are probably fine. If a little more penetration is required, the .38 Special with the 158-grain expanding bullet wins.
NEW COMMENT / 5-24-07 AMERICAN SOLDIERS BEHEADED AND TORTURED BY ISLAMIC ANIMALS. VIEW WITH CAUTION GO TO www.michaelsavage.com ..................................................................................
WELCOME TO THE NO BS ZONE OF TEDDY JACOBSON ...........................................................................................
NEW COMMENT / 5-24-07 AMERICAN SOLDIERS BEHEADED AND TORTURED BY ISLAMIC ANIMALS. VIEW WITH CAUTION GO TO www.michaelsavage.com ...............................................................
DISCLAIMER; THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED AND WRITTEN HERE ARE MY OWN PERSONAL VIEWPOINT. IF YOU CAN NOT DEAL WITH THIS TYPE OF BLOGGER PLEASE LEAVE NOW.
INFORMATION THAT YOU NEED TO KNOW: For years I have been using and recommending "LPS" products. Their liquid product is excellent with in the aerosol cans, but their dispensing valves are so poor that I have stopped using all LPS products for my own work.
I have been very slow to inform you about this because I was hoping that it was just a bad batch of cans but I can no longer recommend a product that leaks like a water faucet. In todays world of polymer guns I have to be very careful which cleaning product I use to maintain the integrity of the plastic parts and I have no loyalty to LPS, I do have loyalty to you, my readers and my customers.
I have switched all my cleaning products over to the NEW BIRCHWOOD CASEY SYNTHETIC AEROSOL CLEANER WHICH IS NOW AVAILABLE MOST ANYWHERE.
This is a first rate cleaner for guns, both metal and polymer and it comes in 2 sizes. I always buy the large size for my work. I have totally given up with the LPS company as they just talk a good game and tell me that they will look into the problem I describe. I CAN NOT WAIT AND NEITHER CAN MY CUSTOMERS.
I am firmly convinced that MILITEC is the very best lubricant for guns of any kind. I have through the years tried everything I could get my hands on but nothing is as good as militec metal conditioner.
The price of Ammunition is getting higher by the day. It is getting harder and harder to find quality ammunition at a decent price. I suggest that when you see something you need and its in stock, do not wait, buy it and tell no one. Try and buy American made ammo as foreign primers are too hard. I would never buy Wolff ammo because of the steel cases that could chip and break an extractor. Its just not worth it in my opinion.
Remember to seal all your primers of your carry ammo, there are many ways to do this but I still like to use a premium red nail polish. I just do one box at a time and I make sure it dries very well.
I will be starting to sell some of my most valuable tools, of course not the originals but I think I will first start selling my 1911 thumb safety installation tool and then I will make some bronze pry bar tools for those that want a great little tool that will not scratch your handgun.
I still will make a few non metallic edged weapons shaped like a credit card for law enforcement only. OR IT WOULD HAVE TO BE SOME ONE I KNOW VERY WELL. I make them different depending on whether you are right or left handed, they of course are non detectible and will cut skin very easily.
There are so many things that I want to write about but my typing is poor at best so I will start writing these informational bloggers at a slower pace than I would like. You must prepare for hard times now as the clock is ticking.
YOU CAN BUY 2 (TWO) KEL-TECS FOR THE PRICE OF ONE NAA GUARDIAN.
MAKE NO MISTAKE ABOUT MY FEELINGS TOWARD NORTH AMERICAN ARMS, I LIKE THEIR MINI REVOLVERS AND THE PERSON THAT WORKS ON THEM AT THE NAA FACTORY IN PROVO, UTAH KNOWS WHAT HE IS DOING.
I WOULD NOT HESITATE TO BUY ANY MINI REVOLVER THAT WAYNE MARTIN OF NAA HAS WORKED ON.
ON THE OTHER HAND I PERSONALLY WOULD NOT EVER BUY ONE OF THESE NEWLY REDESIGNED "GUARDIANS" UNTIL THEY HAVE BEEN OUT ON THE MARKET FOR AT LEAST 2 (TWO) YEARS. THEY CAN NEVER USE ME FOR AN EXPERIMENT AGAIN.
THE ORIGINAL DESIGN IN MY OPINION IS VERY POOR AND THE SPRINGS ARE WORTHLESS. THE BEST THING THE NAA GUARDIAN HAD GOING FOR IT OVER ANY COMPETITION WAS THE TAKE DOWN ASSEMBLY BUT EVEN THAT WAS SUB CONTRACTED OUT AND IT BECAME AN INFERIOR PART.
ITS ALL ABOUT MONEY. THE OWNER OFF NAA HAS KNOWN ABOUT THESE PROBLEMS FOR YEARS. WHY IS HE IN SUCH A PANIC NOW ?? HIS MINI REVOLVERS ARE EXCELLENT AND HE SHOULD IN MY OPINION STAY IN THE MINI REVOLVER BUSINESS AND GET RID OF THE PEOPLE THAT HAVE STEERED HIM WRONG.
THERE IS NO POINT IN CASTING A FRAME AND BARREL IN ONE PIECE. IF HE WANTED THE BEST CASTING MONEY COULD BUY HE SHOULD HAVE GONE TO THE COMPANY THAT RUGER USES AS THEY ARE THE BEST. BUT WHEN YOU LOOK FOR BARGAINS AND CUT CORNERS, BANKRUPCY IS A REALITY.
THESE COMMENTS THAT ARE WRITTEN ARE MY OPINION AND MY VIEWPOINT ONLY BASED ON MY EXPERIENCE SINCE THE EARLY 1970'S. I HAVE FORGOTTEN MORE THAN THEY KNOW ABOUT INTERNAL ACTION WORK.
Sombrerro Message Board Member Username: Sombrerro
Post Number: 184 Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 08:02 pm:
Great thing about this country for me...your a Jew,Mormon,Baptist,Catholic, Agnostic, Buddist, Moonie, Teddy or whatever...if you believe in the second amendment and America...you are my brother.
Try explaining that to Iraq or the rest of those third world Alpha Hotels out there.
It doesn't get any better than we have here.
Lynnkcircle Message Board Member Username: Lynnkcircle
Post Number: 230 Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2007 - 12:29 pm:
To Sombrerro:
Great post. I think it goes even further than that -- if you are willing to support, defend, and protect the Constitution of the United States of America, you are my brother.
That's true even if you (mis)interpret the Second Amendment the way Rudi and the other New Yawkers do.
And as you noted, that is something the Iraqis simply cannot comprehend.
P.S. I have heard upon good authority that when we first invaded Iraq, the Iraqis were convinced they'd been conquered by the United Nations, not the United States. Why? Because it seemed that no two American soldiers looked alike. There were blonds and blacks, Chinese, Vietnamese, Cambodians, Mexicans -- you name it -- all dressed as American soldiers. The Iraqis could not envision a nation in which so many different-looking people could live together in peace and work for a common cause.
